One day each week we’ll list a cool project car or a nice driver for sale here from eBay Motors.  We’ll try to keep the price to a max of $20,000 for full driver cars.  For project cars, no more than $5,000.

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Today’s Car: The Restoration Dream Pick: Un-restored, Un-molested, original ’67 Camaro RS!


You are bidding on an un-restored, un-molested and original 1967 Camaro RS. The car is documented with Protect-o-Plate and many pieces of original owner documentation as you can see in the photographs. I have not found a build sheet in this car yet but the original carpet is still in it so there is hope yet of finding it! The engine, transmission and differential codes match the protect-o-plate and are the original equipment that the car was “born” with. They’ve never been out of the car. The car comes with a 327/210hp coupled to a 2 speed powerglide. The differential is a 10-bolt with a 3:08 ratio. The car comes equipped with factory power steering and Air conditioning. The original date-coded AC hoses are still in place with the original clamps. This thing is a gem of a time capsule! If you want a car you can guarantee is original and not a “put together” or forged example, then this is it.

I bought this car a while back after it had been settled as part of an estate. I have not titled it in my name but I have the clear title which has been signed by the executor of the estate and the release notice which is signed by the ruling judge and stamped. There have only been two titled owners, both in Florida which is where it spent its entire life up until recently. You would be the third owner. From what I know, the original owner had it until about 1980 and the second owner had it until his death a few years ago. Now for the details….:


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ENGINE: The engine is pretty cool looking in its un-restored condition. From what I can tell, the engine has never been out of the car. When I got it back in April, it hadn’t been run in years. But with some work, I got it running and it runs great. I have done the following to the engine:

· Performed a compression check – All cylinders are between 135 to 150 PSI.

· Overhauled the Rochester Carburetor and added a new fuel filter

· Replaced Plugs, wires, points, vacuum advance and set timing

· New Starter

· New Alternator and Delco voltage regulator

· Replaced Intake manifold gasket, including cleaning the wacky 1967 PCV canister in the galley

· Installed new “umbrella” valve seals and Valve Cover gaskets

· New antifreeze

· New oil and temperature sending units

· Changed oil and filter

As I said, it runs excellent after all these years. It also has great oil pressure. I attached an auxiliary oil gauge to it temporarily and it was pumping 30 PSI even when hot at idle. That’s great pressure. The engine does not have any knocks or taps in the valve train either and runs very quiet through the single exhaust – which appears to still have the factory Y-pipe. One thing that does need to be done are new motor mounts installed – which I have to go with the car.

TRANSMISSION: The transmission is a 2-speed and seems to work ok, although I have not had it out on the road to really test it out. I have run it up and down the gravel road near my house a couple of times and it shifted but I can’t give you a full report on the health of it. However I have not had any issues pulling in and out of my shop or around my house. It goes in and out of gear very positively so I do have some confidence in it. Here is what I have done to the Transmission:

· Drained the old fluid, cleaned pan

· Installed a new filter and gasket

· Installed a new modulator valve and hose end

· Added 4 qts of new oil (you cannot drain the torque convertor on these)

DIFFERENTIAL: I have not done anything to the differential yet other than I checked to make sure there was oil in it – which there was. I have not heard any scary clunking or anything when I drove it up the lane here at my house. Otherwise, I haven’t gotten into the innards of it yet so I can’t give you a report on it.




BODY and CHASSIS: The body is amazingly straight and has very little rust. The body panels are the original GM panels and I can find no evidence of any significant damage.. The floors and undercarriage are SPECTACULAR. From the bottom, they appear to be as new as the day they left the factory other than covered in grease and dirt. The shock towers and trunk are very clean with no rust. The only rust to speak of on this car is the core support which got rotted out by the battery. It also attacked the radiator side bracket so that will all need to be repaired/replaced. The paint on the car is mostly original but there is evidence of a possible re-paint many years ago. Nevertheless, most of the paint has washed down very thin from sitting for many years in the Florida sun partially protected under a car port. The car still has the original spare tire and rim and all the jack components are there except the wing nut to hold the jack base clamped in the wheel opening.

INTERIOR, GAUGES and ELECTRICAL: The interior is all original and tired as you can see. The drivers seat is shredded and the passenger seat is rough too but the foam is good. I have new interior upholstery to cover all seats and have new foam for the driver’s seat. The door panels has speaker holes cut in them so I cut and patched them with vinyl from a spare door panel. It’s not professional, but it looks good from the vantage point of just peering in the car. I have new carpet, dash pad and a list of new interior items to go along. The original head-liner and sail panels are long gone but the top bows and sail panel clips are still there. Sun visors are rough but I have new material for the headliner, sail panels and visors. I do not have a package tray cover. The shifter operates but will need some work to fix the detent bar. I have new console parts and a new neutral safety switch. The gauges all work fine as do the switches, windshield wipers, etc. The original radio is long gone but the dash has NOT been cut.

HEADLIGHT DOOR OPERATION: The headlight doors did not open when I got the car because of a bad ground. I fixed that and also replaced the right side door motor which was froze up. At this point, the doors open fine, but only the left side closes repeatably. I replaced the relay panel but the problem is still there. It probably should have a new switch before digging too deep in the circuit. The limit switches have all been cleaned and tested and they work fine.

NOTE: All text is taken from the Owner’s eBay Listing

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